Studied Nonchalance

27950616.1677ed0.06069d7e811140acb9c4c02cbe179ee8

Res Ipsa

“The Thing Speaks for Itself”

So it seems I’m a model now. The fellas representing Res Ipsa asked if I wouldn’t mind snapping a few pics for them and, of course, I was happy to do that. I’ll try almost anything once.

I came away from that meeting rather impressed. As a long-time fan of Stubbs & Wootton, I didn’t expect to be so taken with these. For this price point (~$200), I was very pleasantly surprised with all their varieties of slippers. Unable to help myself, I went home that same night and whipped out my debit card for the kilim pair seen here:

Eager to wear these with white denim jeans this spring! Again, this pair is kilim wool (think Turkish rugs), but Res Ipsa also produces slippers/loafers in smart-looking Harris tweed as well as solid-colored suedes. Their bags (while priced beyond what I’m willing to pay) are incredible too. In sum: These are every bit S&W’s equal and almost half the cost. I’m already a convert, but if Res Ipsa ever puts out a line of linen shoes, I’ll be theirs forever.

A handful of style-minded fellas got together at the Vagabond in mid-town Miami last weekend and I was fortunate enough to be invited. Neil Watson, of Art & Hustle Magazine, hosted the dinner and tasting for IW Harper bourbon. Drinks for both the 7-yr and 15-yr varieties were aplenty along with expertly paired tapas. I’ll always be a scotch whisky man, but there’s no denying that their elder spirit is an impressive one. A debt of gratitude to those who made the evening possible and to the gents who made it memorable - thank you.

Linen suit - Tiberias Clothing
Linen shirt - Luciano Barbera
Lapel pin - By Elias
Pocket Square - Rampley & Co.

fromsqualortoballer:

Sew Many Buttons
My next button-swapping project - read the article here: http://fromsqualortoballer.com/replace-horn-buttons-britex-eidos/

Nice little article by Ian Anderson (From Squalor to Baller). It’s incredible how much difference a change of buttons can make to the overall appearance of a well-loved coat or jacket.

fromsqualortoballer:

Sew Many Buttons

My next button-swapping project - read the article here: http://fromsqualortoballer.com/replace-horn-buttons-britex-eidos/

Nice little article by Ian Anderson (From Squalor to Baller). It’s incredible how much difference a change of buttons can make to the overall appearance of a well-loved coat or jacket.

This just in..

..from Knottery!

I recently purchased this autumnal silk knit (rust/olive melange) from Knottery’s latest collection and I couldn’t be more pleased with it. This shade of “burnt” orange has been popular across many menswear brands these last couple years and it’s easy to see why. You wouldn’t immediately think any hue on the orange color spectrum would be all that versatile, but hey, it really is! It goes great with grays, blues, browns, and greens (as seen above).

What’s more, these crunchy ties represent a great value at about $70.00 - that’s unheard of for this level of quality. I’ve sung Jay’s (the owner) praises many times before, but these may be his best work yet. Bravo, Jay. Bravo.

Navy/Brown

Blue/Green

Gray/Blue

Check out the entire collection here - www.knottery.com

WIWT 12/8/2015

Proper Shoe Care - Cordovan Leather - Part 1 of 2

Cordovan Leather

Pictured: Crockett & Jones for Ralph Lauren “Marlow” Wingtip Blucher in “Dark Brown” cordovan leather.

With proper maintenance, a good pair of shoes can last for years. Decades even. Sure, $300 to $600 does sound like an awful lot for a single pair of shoes, but ask yourself which is better in the long run: Paying $150 for shoes that you’ll have for a few seasons or $300 for a pair that you may get to pass down to your sons some day?

Another benefit to buying better quality is that they’ll actually look better with age and use. Your shoes will grow old with you so long as the leather has been nourished, periodically polished, and kept in shape with shoe trees. For the frugal gents reading this, I urge you not to skimp on your shoes. With many makers using the “goodyear” welt, you’ll be able to replace soles when they eventually wear through as well as the heels. True, the wallet takes a serious hit at first, but buying quality footwear is a smart investment that will save you money over time.

So how to keep your shoes in tip-top condition? That depends on the leather – each has its own process. Let’s take a look at four of the more common types: calf, cordovan, suede, and reptile. Follow along and I’ll show step by step how to have your shoes looking their best for years to come.

Cordovan - Nick Horween (of the famed Horween Leather Company) once said that shell cordovan is, “Similar to having a fine wine that you can drink every day and keeps getting better.” Well put, Mr. Horween. Made from the tough rear-ends of horse hides, cordovan can last multiple lifetimes. No doubt about it, shell is expensive but it’s also the most difficult leather to produce. The tanning, stuffing, shaving, and polishing process takes at least six months, but the end result is undeniably gorgeous. Yes, the price tag is eye-popping, but they’re worth every penny.

Step 1

Remove the laces and wipe the shoes down with a damp cloth. Cordovan can sometimes have some white streaking in and around the creases. This is actually fat and should be mopped up prior to polishing.

Step 2

Buff the shoes to brush away dust and warm the leather.

Keep reading

Proper Shoe Care - Cordovan Leather - Part 2 of 2

Cordovan Leather

Pictured: Crockett & Jones for Ralph Lauren “Marlow” Wingtip Blucher in “Dark Brown” cordovan leather.

Step 5

No shoe cream? Not necessary. Cordovan is non-porous; one of the many reasons it’s so revered. In this case, applying a cream polish would only make shining the shoes more difficult. There are creams made especially for cordovan, but I’ve found that conditioner does the job just fine. Feel free to skip straight ahead to wax polish. Apply an even coat of wax polish and set aside for at least 20 minutes.

Keep reading

Complexity in Pattern

dirnelli:

urbancomposition:

“Creativity is more than just being different. Anybody can play weird– that’s easy. What’s hard is to be as simple as Bach. Making the simple complicated is commonplace–making the complicated simple, awesomely simple–that’s creativity.” - Charles Mingus

In today’s post-slacker world, just wearing coat and tie is enough to turn heads in many environments. Sadly, though, in response to the incessant thundering appeal to “stand out,” men are blindly throwing together so many unrelated #menswear trends and patterns under the misguided siren call to “be original” that the resulting stew of glen plaids, gingham checks, candy stripes, and polka dots would make even Andrea Bocelli vomit.

If that’s what you’re shooting for, more power to you; however do not delude yourself into thinking a random salmagundi of patterns is an expression of your creativity. Many confuse “individuality” with “creativity”, but there is a difference: the aim of individuality is to be “different” by bucking convention. The genius of creativity is taking something complex and making it appear simple.

Charles Mingus released one of his best-known albums Ah Um the same year that Miles Davis released Kind of Blue. Both, now over 50 years old, are premier examples of how complexity can be done well. Indeed, despite the fact that up to six instruments played a part in each song, note the recurring concept that keeps appearing in critics’ reviews:

“Simplicity – the reason Kind of Blue has remained so successful for so long.” - npr.org

“…one of the many amazing things about Mingus Ah Um is that he took this incredibly challenging jazz, in perhaps its creative heyday, and made it as easy as pop music.” - Bob Lange

“All of the contributions…only served to illuminate Miles’ zen-like approach on this record that relied on simplicity.” - allaboutjazz.com

This concept was by no means new. Over 100 years earlier, none other than Chopin himself opined: “Simplicity is the final achievement. After one has played a vast quantity of notes and more notes, it is simplicity that emerges as the crowning reward of art.”

Can this concept be applied to #menswear? Yes, it can, in two ways: One instrument at a time; or if many, they must harmonize.

One pattern

If more than one pattern, the scale of each must harmonize via contrast. Think of it this way: The items that are closest to each other should be dissimilar in scale; your ensemble should not look too busy. If your jacket has a large pattern, the shirt’s pattern should be smaller. If the shirt’s pattern is small, the tie’s pattern should be large. If you decide to wear a pocket square, its scale should differ from the jacket.

Two patterns

Three patterns

Four patterns

Note that in all cases, the colors are not garish. If one pattern stands out more than the other, it is not so disparate as to look either out of place or forced. Whether simple or complex, everything should just…flow easily. Stephen Thomas Erlewine of allmusic.com sums it up by saying: “Kind of Blue works on many different levels. It can be played as background music, yet it amply rewards close listening. It is advanced music that is extraordinarily enjoyable.”

Standing out is easy; just wear red shoelaces. Don’t just be different. Be creative by making the complicated simple. Make Mingus proud.

Photos courtesy of Alan See, the Armoury Lightbox, Ethan Newton, and No Man Walks Alone

Wise words from @urbancomposition, summing up here one of the quintessential chapters on pattern-mixing found in Alan Flusser’s seminal tome ‘Dressing the Man’, a book every iGent ought to buy & commit to memory. @scavini recently posted that only Edward VIII and @dirnelli wear striped shirts with checked jackets. The article above shows how anyone can do it, if they apply a few simple rules about scale.

linenforsummertweedforwinter:

mrmenco:

Just Pooh wearing a dongal ISAIA suit.

Mensbear.

linenforsummertweedforwinter:

mrmenco:

Just Pooh wearing a dongal ISAIA suit.

Mensbear.

Ever Dreamed of Owning a Suit Made on Savile Row?

Here’s an easy way to win one!

Rampley & Co. has teamed with Cad & The Dandy to bring us a fantastic contest that nets the winner five pocket squares and an honest-to-goodness Savile Row suit!! Entry couldn’t be simpler - click on to competition page (here) and the answer the question, “What makes a gentleman?”

Three additional entries can be made by watching the accompanying videos on suit qualities by Cad & The Dandy owner, James Sleater.

At the time of writing, there are 12 days left until the contest closes. Get at it, folks.

The Gray Sportcoat - F/W16

On versatility..

A gray sportcoat ranks very highly on my list for its versatility and timelessness. Even if you’d never dream of stepping foot inside a cubicle, a gray jacket in wool and, perhaps, a seasonal fabric or two will see plenty of use. I’ve read many times over that gray sportcoats are notoriously difficult to work into outfits and I tend to disagree. Take a gander at this simple look I’ve cooked up and you be the judge:

^Earth tones. Can’t go wrong with earth tones.

The colder months usher in burly fabrics, deeper/richer hues, and obvious textures. This medium-shade gray jacket is made from alpaca wool and, unlike suiting wool, is meant to be an insulator. It’s meant for brisk weather and it WILL keep the chill out. Since this one has patch pockets and a rough hand, it just feels right to pair it with a beefy denim shirt and olive v-neck sweater. The stone-colored washed cotton chinos, brogued oxfords, and houndstooth pocket square are all fitting for the season and will never ever, ever go out of style. Thinking of picking one up? I doubt you’ll regret it.

See the full article on Primer Magazine and follow me on Instagram for frequent updates!

@suitsupply @jcrew @everlane @allenedmonds

This just in..

..from Monsieur Fox!

“Inspired by the famous print of the Japanese painter, Hokusai, The Great Wave is one of the most iconic motifs from 19th century Japan. Our pocket square is a series of these waves, with a subtle Koi fish worked into the corner. Representing good fortune and prosperity, the Koi fish is originally Chinese, however, the Japanese are credited with it’s careful cultivation, crafting it into a meaningful symbol.

The Great Wave is often linked with dramatic events, and as the Koi fish represents good fortune, we thought that the combination provided an elegant contrast; danger and luck, all in a simple pocket square.”

Composition: 70% Wool, 30% Silk

If it wasn’t blatantly obvious before now, I’m a big fan of The Monsieur Fox and their extraordinary pocket squares. The “Koi” design just dropped today - I nabbed one in amber (top) iiimmmedddiiaatellyyy. Potential customers should remember to take advantage of the code they’re running this week for 20% off orders of $100 or more: HOLIDAY15

@themonsieurfox

Monsieur Fox

Kings of Color

#EveryDayElegance - if you haven’t already, you absolutely must check out Monsieur Fox. They’re a relatively young company, but they’ve quickly earned a ton of clout among the menswear elite.

Rampley & Co.

A Review :: On the Subject of High-End Pocket Squares

I’m a pocket square guy. Glance in my closet and you’ll find a good-sized box that’s quite literally overflowing with them. The toughest part of my morning routine is choosing among them; finding the one that perfectly complements the day’s outfit. The right square can really enhance an otherwise ordinary look – they’re so much more important than you might initially think! Strange, then, that I feel as though most men (even well-dressed ones) don’t care enough to pick one out as purposefully they would a tie. Looking back, I understand. I used to buy squares strictly for their color schemes and patterns – if I thought a particular square would work well with one of my favorite ties, I’d snatch it up. They weren’t pieces I cherished or admired on their own, but in the last year or so, I’ve come to appreciate well-designed squares as the works of art they truly are. Rubinacci , Christian Kimber , Drakes, The Monsieur Fox , E.G. Cappelli , Liverano & Liverano; all well-established makers of beautiful, vibrant, eye-catching, and classic pochettes in every gorgeous sort of materials. The best, perhaps, of this master class might be relative newcomer, Rampley & Co.

Scroll through their collections and it shouldn’t take long to sort out where they’re from. The proud Londoners have, in remarkable detail, beautifully adapted famous British artworks to silken squares. There’s another set dedicated to the illustrations of English ornithologist, William Swainson and yet another trio made from time-honored Harris Tweed wool. At the time of writing, they’ve just released the “Scream” gallery featuring two examples of modern art from, you guessed it, English-born painters. The “Kinglet” square immediately grabbed my attention. It sat in my bookmarks for several weeks before I finally pulled the trigger. It carried a price tag that I wasn’t initially comfortable paying, but I just kept coming back to the page again and again to admire it. I resisted for maybe three months before cracking - had to have it. Along with it, I also ordered the “Venice” square – this one tugged at my heartstrings a bit. My late grandfather was an extraordinary watercolorist and he’d painted the same scene maaannnyyy years ago – a prized piece I inherited that now hangs in my office.

The package arrived quickly. Shockingly so, actually. It shipped here days faster than something else I’d bought that same afternoon, but only a few states away. Royal Int. Mail > USPS? I guess so!

Unboxing

Inside the smart-looking black box were the two squares, a signed ‘thank you’ note, an info card, and an unexpected gift – two stamped collar stays. I really appreciated that they went the extra mile on their packaging. It made the purchase feel..ritzier..or somehow more luxurious. But enough about that – on to the squares:

Venice: The Basin of San Marco on Ascension Day

Just look and marvel at the level of detail in this square. I can’t imagine how painstakingly difficult it must have been to get the image this sharp and the colors so spot-on. As was mentioned, the minds behind Rampley & Co clearly have a fondness for fine art. This particular pocket square is inspired by Canaleto’s near 300 year-old painting, “Venice: The Basin of San Marco on Ascension Day.

There’s a lot to like about this one (even if you’re not an Art History major). The color palette is perfect for the Fall and Winter seasons (though slightly better for Fall) – the murky green-tinged water, the cranberry red and mustard yellow lattice border, the desaturated blue and gray sky – beautifully balanced. Playing to the square’s strengths, I opted for a green sportcoat, blue shirt, and caramel-colored chinos though it’d look just as handsome tucked into the breast pocket of a navy or darker gray wool suit.

Kinglet Calyptura

The colors on this one (as well as the birds) suggest that it’s best suited to the warmer months. That won’t stop me from using it year-round, though. By positioning the square so that the burnt orange edge and green leaves show, I’ll get a lot of mileage out of this even now. That it’s on a white background (a bit of a rarity in silk squares) makes it all the more versatile. Here I’ve chosen to wear it with an olive raw silk tie to bring out the green in the square.

There’s something that’s really charming about it, right? This collection[12] may be my favorite of the bunch. Those three seem to agree with my style the most. The design is inspired by William Swainson, a 19th century ornithologist and author who’d often draw his subjects.

My impression? Rampley & Co. puts out some top-notch stuff and, for the price, it’d better be. The hand-rolled edges, the weight, the matte finish, the hand, the design – I can’t find fault in any of it. Worth the money? That is, of course, up for the buyer to decide. If my opinion means anything, though, I’d want to tell you that that high-end pocket squares are more than just 16x16” cuts of silk. They’re that ‘little something extra’ that elevates an outfit from good to great. Now that I understand that, I’m hooked. Rampley has a repeat customer in me.

8 Essential Ties for Any (and All) Occasions

Men don’t have many options when it comes to accessorizing their workplace outfits. Jewelry is typically limited to a watch and perhaps a wedding band. Sure, you could stuff a pocket square in your suit jacket. Bracelets, lapel pins, and cuff links are also good options for personalizing a look, but a neck tie is going to be the most impactful addition you can make. They can be rather pricey, though, so we recommend planning your purchases well ahead of time and always with the rest of your wardrobe in mind.

A reader recently asked if he could “survive” with only a small collection of ties – fewer than 10, he wondered. In menswear, the mantra is not to buy more, but buy better and smarter. With that in mind, we’ve created a short shopping list of varied and versatile ties. These are sure to get you through any occasion where a tie should be worn. The office, your cousin’s wedding, a swanky nightclub – we’ve got you covered.

1. Navy Grenadine

Grenadine ties are made from silk and specially woven for a subtle bit of texture and visual depth. Though grenadines can be had featuring patterns, it’s generally recommended you stick to solid colors for this type of tie. If a grenadine in navy was the only tie you owned, you realistically could get by with just that one tie. It’s that versatile. If you’re just starting out, or revamping an existing collection, we recommend this as your first purchase.

2. Gray Prince of Wales

You might know this pattern by its other name, Glen Plaid. Whichever you call it, this is another tie that’ll serve you well. To maximize potential, we suggest one made from silk or wool in a lighter shade of gray. The Prince of Wales pattern (recognized by its plaided houndstooth design) is typically worn at more formal occasions. It’s commonly found on groomsmen at weddings, but it’s certainly not limited to ceremonial events.

3. Burgundy Dot

The dot pattern tie is, admittedly, very simple but also a staple. These are absolutely appropriate at professional job interviews or when suited up for work. Buying one in burgundy is a safe play as it’ll look great under a navy, gray, blue, or khaki suit. It’s also one of the few colors that can pair well with black. When choosing a dot tie, be mindful of their size. Pin dots (small) lean formal whereas polka dots (large) are more casual. We’d advise something in between.

4. Light Blue or Yellow Printed

Though this type of tie is rooted in prep style, geometric designs are perfectly fine to wear to the office. You may have seen ties like these described as “Ancient Madder” ties. This refers to a specific dyeing process used on the silks that make for slightly muted appearance and chalky texture (the blue tie appears to be madder - the yellow is not). They’re harder to come by and, as you might imagine, will lighten your wallet a little more. Madders are quite impressive looking, but are they worth the extra cash? That’s entirely up to you.

5. Burnt Orange or Hunter Green Silk Knit

You might be surprised by how useful a burnt orange tie can be. The same can be said for a darker shade of green. You might also be surprised to learn how versatile knit ties are. This ‘casual cool’ type can be worn just as easily with suits as it can with jeans and a sportcoat. Though these square-ended ties can be made from a handful of different materials, we recommend silk for its wonderful texture and four-season weight.

6. Brown Raw Silk

This material, also known as “shantung” and “tussah”, is a bit heavier and more textured than treated silk. Raw silk resembles linen somewhat and has an obvious “slubby” or “pilled” look. Though raw silk can be worn year round, it’s perhaps most associated with the coolder months. Brown ties are seriously underrated and will look fantastic under a light gray, beige, cobalt blue, or navy jacket.

7. Bar or Repp Stripe

Bar and Repp stripe ties are incredibly popular – we’re betting you own a couple already. Much like geometric design ties, these also have their origin in prep style and are fine companions for business suits. With the pattern being so bold, we suggest you opt for an understated colorway. We’ve elected for an old standby – navy and gray.

8. Black Grenadine

Black ties don’t get a whole lot of play because, truth be told, there just aren’t many opportunities for most men to wear one. That said, you should still have one handy. A black grenadine is a good thing to have when paying respects at a funeral or attending a posh dinner party. Know that you have a choice of two weaves when it comes to grenadines; there’s the garza fina weave (fine) and the garza grossa weave (wide). The finer the weave, the more formal in appearance. For black grenadines, go with garza fina.

BONUS TIES

Want more? Once you’ve earned yourself a well-manicured tie collection, you can start branching out to more niche designs and season-specific materials.

Blackwatch

Perhaps the best known tartan plaid is Blackwatch. Even if you didn’t know it by name, you recognized it right away. Characterized by its black, blue, green (and sometimes purple) color scheme, it’s great with a flannel wool suit.

Pastel Linen

One look and you know it’s linen. Something like this in salmon, canary yellow, mint green, or sky blue would look mighty handsome at an outdoor wedding this summer. Picture this one with a brown linen suit, a gin and tonic, and an admiring bridesmaid on your arm. Nice.

See the full article on Primer Magazine and be sure to follow along on Instagram for daily updates.

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